![]() This caused a problem in Helicon, resulting in a prolonged wait and ending with an ‘error 5’ message on the screen. The one problem I had using the raw images straight from the camera is that at one point, I had the camera off level (a “Dutch angle,” for those familiar with the term), and because the camera was somewhere between horizontal and vertical I got the occasional vertical image when all others were horizontal. I tend to call this a ‘bin’ after video editing software. The software tells you in big letters across the screen how to get your images into the program. ![]() Instead, let’s get the images into Helicon Focus where the main work is done. My use of Helicon Remote is discussed in the video at the bottom of the page I won’t linger on it here. I don’t have a motorized setup, so I couldn’t test this feature. I understand that even if I were using my Canon MP-E macro lens (a wonderful macro-only lens with no autofocus), Helicon Remote can control motorized macro rails. This isn’t a macro setup (1:1), so I could use the camera’s focusing mechanism. My camera was tethered to the computer, letting Remote do the driving. In this instance, I started with Helicon Remote. Being able to drop in your raw images makes life easier and gets you faster into the work of making the “real” image. What if you’re shooting with one of the 50+ megapixel cameras? You would shoot a stack of, say, 20 images and then have to convert them all to TIF before you can import them into your chosen focus stacking program. Of course, it retains the ability to use your camera raw files (no need to convert to TIF or jpg). I am incredibly impressed with how much Helicon Focus has improved since I first used it. Recently, however, I was preparing to be a guest lecturer for a college class to demonstrate focus stacking, and it seemed only fair that I should take another look at Helicon Focus. But I was successfully using the other software and Photoshop to stack my images. ![]() Time passed, and I don’t even remember why I first switched. It was good, and I used it for a while, then switched to another program. Save your image here and exit Helicon focus.īack in Capture One, you should now see your complete image along with the saved variants, in case you selected to keep them.Several years ago, when I first began photographing feathers, I tried some software called Helicon Focus. Once the Stacking image is rendered, you should click Save and the dialog will point you into the original capture folder. In Helicon Focus, you should select your rendering method (please refer to the Helicon Focus Documentation) and click Render. Afterwards, Helicon Focus will be opened. Now the selected images will be processed and imported to Helicon Focus. When things are set up the way you need, click on the Edit Variants. The Keep processed variants option can be checked if you want to store the processed work-files in order to have a faster workflow for re-processing the images through Helicon focus at a later time (please see below). It will let you set up the output files that are used in Helicon Focus and some basic adjustments. When the images are selected, they can be sent to Helicon Focus by going to the menu and choosing Image -> Edit Wit h -> Stack in Helicon Focus.Ī dialog will open. Otherwise, you will have to select the images manually. All the images with the same Sequence ID are now selected. If the images are captured using the Focus Stacking tool on the XF Camera, you can select them by Sequence ID (metatag). Select one of the images from the sequence and then choose Select -> Select By Same -> Sequence ID. When capturing image sequences destined for focus stacking, you can use Capture One to select the appropriate sequence of images. ![]()
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